It didn't flicker, there were no popping noises, no smoke came out (thankfully! can't lose that magic smoke).in fact, the LEDs behind the buttons didn't even light up. I have the same monitor and I love it, been using it for 4-5 years at least (and I notice it was about 4-5 years ago that this thread ended, haha), but a lightning storm came through recently when I was away from home and when I got back, the screen wouldn't turn on. Oh well, I guess that will never be the case.
#Dell e207wfp how to remove frame manuals#
I wish Dell would have some kind of repair manuals available online for people like you and me, so we could tackle our computer problems ourselves.
For $29.90 or so you can talk on the phone to some expert who probably knows less about electronics than you and me (I have been working in the computer business for more than 20 years in main frame computer development and production). As soon as the warranty expires you cannot use the chat anymore. I would have expected getting some help at least. This is the first time I have been disappointed. I have been buying Dell computers for more than ten years now. Using an 8", 10" and 12" blade or any combination of the three would allow to open all common size monitors ranging from 17" up to more than 30" monitors. I would use some thin steel blades to open all the latches at once and thus would be able to open the cover without any scratch. Should I need to open this or another LCD monitor in the future I know how to do it. If I should run into a problem soon I will know where to look first. I'm not worried about the capacitor right now. The discoloration around the soldering points consists of some flux residue (can be identified using a magnifying glass). Some of the apparent discoloration (the larger areas) is just shadows. So I'm glad you encouraged me to go ahead. I had asked Chris about how to open the cover by sending PM's, but he played dumb with me. There are several other areas affected, but the picture does not show them clear enough. On the left hand side of the PCB it looks like the soldering points of a capacitor could have been shorted by the contaminaton. The monitor has been running for about 14 hours today without a single hitch. The only conclusion I could draw was that I was sold a refurbished monitor! Anyway, I cleaned the PCB, put all PCB's back in, made sure all connectors were seated ok and closed the monitor. But the power supply board was clean and all component were ok. It looked to me like a capacitor on the power supply board had burst and spilled electrolyte onto the adjacent PCB. The PCB where the DVI cable gets attached to looked like there was something spilled on, which had dried of course. I would have needed 6 putty knives because there are 6 latches inside the bottom and the top and 4 inside the left and right side. I took the plunge and opened the housing of the 2007wfp (with almost no scratches). Thanks for the tip on opening the monitor cover. I might try your suggestion tr4 if I do not get some more detailed advice.
But on the other hand I do not have schematics either. Unfortunately, I do not have access to an oscilloscope and/or logic analyzer anymore since I retired. I would like to check and reseat all connectors and also take a look at the electronics. Of course the problem could also be caused by a faulty electronic part like a capacitor. It looks to me that thermal expansion could be the cause the problem.
Tapping with a finger against the back of the cover causes the picture to stabilize immediately, but after a while the problem might come back. When it gets pretty warm, the problem might show up. When the monitor is cold, the problem does not show up. I suspect a faulty connector or a bad soldering point to be the reason. It looks like it is loosing vertical synchronization sometimes (the horizontal lines are all over the place).
0 kommentar(er)
